Les mille et un visages d’Alger la nocturne épisode 2

Découvrez le deuxième épisode des mille et un visages des nuits algéroises. Leurs méandres, leurs habitudes, leurs mystères et ses quartiers, en somme son identité …

Contrairement aux idées reçues, le centre-ville est dangereux

Retour vers la partie centre-ville, au niveau de la rue Khelifa Boukahlfa. Nous arrivons pile à l’heure de la relève pour les gardiens de parkings sauvages. Demi-madrier en les mains, youyou comme l’appellent ses voisins jugule la circulation.«Dkika Khouna, rahou igari » (une minute mon frère, il se gare). Youyou vient de choper un automobiliste à la recherche de stationnement. Pour lui démontrer sa présence, et son statut de gardien de Parking, il prend la peine de le guider.  “Zid zid, rak baid”  (tu es loin).  Au pire, il ajoutera un « rana hna » (On est là), mais ce ne sera pas nécessaire cette fois-ci.

«  Jouz, jouz » nous fait-il en suite  d’un signe de la main, avant de fermer le rétroviseur de son client de la soirée et de se réinstaller sur sa chaise au beau milieu de la chaussée.

Il est alors 22 H 00 et nous arpentons maintenant, la célèbre rue Didouche Mourad déserte pour le coup. La foule qui flânait là quelques heures auparavant s’en est allée, laissant place à des bandes de jeunes désœuvrés qui rasent les murs. Ils circulent en meute et importunent les rares passants riverains et les SDF qui vocifèrent des noms d’oiseaux et expriment la colère profonde qui les anime.

Les automobilistes pour leur part confondent l’avenue avec une rue à grande vitesse. De leurs bolides de rallye s’échappent des chansons Raï inaudibles en journée. Très peu de magasins sont ouverts, à l’exception de quelques fast-food ou tabac-journaux. Le sentiment d’insécurité est palpable.

Les SDF entre froid et insécurité

Les trottoirs noirs de monde la journée, sont noirs de saleté à cette heure ci et vacants, ou presque. Seuls des cartons s’entassent à chaque coin de rue sous lesquels s’abritent les nombreux sans domiciles fixes de la capitale. Ils viennent d’ailleurs, des autres villes de l’intérieur du pays, où ils ont fui des problèmes familiaux, la misère ou un passé encombrant, croyant trouver refuge à Alger.

Comble de la malchance, les recoins sombres du centre-ville où ces derniers pourraient espérer somnoler par ces temps de froid, sont trop dangereux pour eux.  Les SDF en quête d’un endroit pour dormir, préfèrent dormir sous la lumière.

« C’est trop dangereux pour eux les recoins sombres » m’expliquait un ami une fois. «Ils ont peur d’être agressés, ou kidnappés dans leur sommeil. Du coup,  ils préfèrent dormir gênés par la lumière que de se retrouver dans la pénombre».

Pour éviter de croiser les rayons lumineux, les pauvres sans abris, se recroquevillent comme ils peuvent sous leurs cartons, ou squattent les halls d’immeubles pour les plus chanceux. Une situation lamentable aggravée par l’insécurité ambiante.

Sidi Yaya, c’est déjà mieux

Changement de monde. Dans ce quartier huppé d’Alger l’atmosphère est un peu plus légère. Contrairement au reste de la ville, ici les magasins sont ouverts que ce soit les restaurants, les glaciers, les Fast-Food, mais aussi les supérettes, les magasins de chaussures, les disquaires et j’en passe. Il est pourtant déjà 23 H passé.

Nous y trouvons également des piétons, espèce que nous traquons depuis bientôt une heure dans les rues d’Alger, mais pas de SDF. Pas un mendiant à même le trottoir, pas un carton en guise de couette, pas d’abris de fortune au milieu de la rue. Le quartier est-il trop cher pour eux aussi ? Sûrement. Exit également le sentiment d’insécurité, les problèmes de parking sauvages et même les problèmes de transport car ici il n’y a pas d’arrêts de bus. En fait il n’y a rien. Hormis des magasins trop chers pour le commun des mortels et des restaurants où des odeurs culinaires se mélangent. Nous continuons notre expédition.

Bab El Oued, popularité et petits trafic

J’arrive enfin à Bab El Oued, un quartier dont je ne pourrais me passer pour un reportage sur Alger, et c’est un orchestre Chaâbi, bien de chez nous, qui m’accueille au niveau de la DGSN.

Agréablement surpris, je ne pouvais m’attendre à mieux, et c’est guidé par les sons de la mandole, que je me dirige vers le célèbre Café El Bahdja où de grands noms de la chanson algéroise se produisent comme pour perpétuer une tradition en danger. Ce soir là, c’est Abdelmadjid Meskoud, qui loue El Assima et ses souvenirs. Je m’y attable quelques minutes, au milieu des riverains ou des curieux. Tout le monde est à l’écoute, les vieux, les jeunes, les enfants, les policiers en factions, et même les automobilistes qui freinent un tant soit peu la circulation. Certaines familles de passage, auraient bien voulu nous y rejoindre mais les mœurs ne le leur permettent toujours pas.

Alger se meurt car Alger se languit. Voila le drame. « De nous jours, des évènements comme celui là étaient quotidiens. Aujourd’hui ils sont exceptionnels» s’offusque un vieux passant.

La nuit, trouver de la drogue est plus facile que de trouver un café

Vers 1 H 15 du matin, je rencontre un vieux camarade de classe, Mehdi. Un grand gaillard de plus de deux mètres qui vit plutôt la nuit. Après deux ou trois longues parties de cartes, auxquelles il s’est adonné sous la lumière d’un réverbère du quartier de Bab El Oued,  ce gros fumeur est à la recherche d’un café pour accompagner sa dernière cigarette.

Problème, à Alger, les cafés comme le reste des magasins ferment des la nuit tombée. Dépassée une certaine heure, la moindre course, aussi banale soit elle, devient des plus compliquées.

Même le café El Bahdja, ou je m’étais attablé quelques minutes auparavant a baissé le rideau. « J’ai oublié d’acheter un café plutôt. Ou vais-je en trouver maintenant ? » Balbutie-t-il un peu énervé. «Yakhi bled, yakhi. Même prendre un café devient mission impossible dans ce pays» s’excite-t-il.

Je lui propose alors de l’accompagner en voiture dans sa quête de caféine et nous entamons ainsi un autre périple dans de nombreux quartiers d’Alger pour pouvoir goûter au plaisir de ce stimulant en vente libre, ou presque.

Et en avant : Place des Martyrs, Place du 1er Mai, Hydra, Bir Mourad Rais. Tous les cafés sont fermés dans Alger intra et extra muros. Les rideaux sont baissés et seul des restes de marc de café sont entreposés à coté des poubelles sorties trop tard pour être ramassées. Nous pistons pourtant le moindre arôme caféine qui rassasierait mon ami Mehdi, mais en vain. Les seules odeurs qui nous happent à chaque halte sont celles de Kif brûlé auquel s’abandonnent de nombreux jeunes quasi ostensiblement. Il faut dire que dans les ruelles vides et sombres de la capitale, deal et petits trafics sont légions, et ceux qui s’y adonnent sont rarement inquiétés.

A chacun sa came

Ce soir là, seul Mehdi et sa carrure imposante trouble un tant soit peu ces jeunes. Quand il s’approche, les voix se font plus basses, et les mains se vident de leurs substances. La consommation de stupéfiants et alors plus discrète, au moins jusqu’à ce que le colosse s’éloigne.

« Trouver du café est plus compliqué que de trouver de la drogue à Alger » me dit-il cyniquement lors d’une halte à Kouba. Pas faux.  Et l’expédition reprend de plus belle : Les Annassers, Hussein Dey,  Kouba, et même Bab Ezzouar et toujours pas de café ouvert. Il y a bien quelques vendeurs de thé ambulants qui quêtent leurs derniers clients, mais ceux là ne comblent pas Mehdi qui tient absolument à son «petit noir serré».

Fort heureusement vers 2 H 30, alors que nous sommes sur le chemin du retour, nous arrivons enfin à trouver un café ouvert, au niveau du square Port Said. Mehdi y savoure son kawa comme si c’était le dernier. Désormais il sait où trouver du café à 2 H du mat, à quelques encablures de son réverbère. Cela vaut bien un joli pourboire.

Amine F

Revenir au premier épisode

ONDA

Droits d’auteur/ L’ONDA va ester en justice les chaînes privées en infraction

Le directeur général de l’Office des Droits d’auteur et droits voisins (ONDA), Samy Benchikh El Hocine, a annoncé que son organisme introduira, dimanche prochain, une plainte en référé contre les chaînes de télévision privées qui diffusent des contenus sans s’acquitter des droits d’auteurs.     Le responsable de l’ONDA a déclaré lors de son passage, […]

cevital

Cevital/ Un responsable dénonce des surfacturations de la part du gouvernement

Les centrales électriques acquises par le groupe Cevital auprès de la multinationale britannique Clarke Energy, qui seront opérationnelles cet été, seraient moins chères et plus performantes que celles acquises par l’État chez les mêmes fournisseurs. Moussa Nait Amara, responsable du bureau d’Alger de Baticompos Cevital, a exposé, hier lundi, sur sa page Facebook, les détails techniques concernant notamment […]

BACCALAUREAT

5ème, BEM et Bac/ Les résultats connus en juin

Les examens de fin des cycles, primaire, moyen et secondaires ont été avancés. L’annonce des résultats aussi. La ministre de l’Education nationale, Nouria Benghebrit, a indiqué, dimanche soir, que cela se fera au mois de juin. Les résultats de l’examen du «cinquième» seront connus en premier. S’en suivront, dans l’ordre, ceux du BEM et du Bac. […]

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